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The John Lobb brand is a legendary manufacturers in Northampton, a city that rose to prominence as a core of the shoe industry in the 17th century. Although Hermes Group has owned the company since 1976, the factory is dedicated to preserving the craft techniques developed in the Victorian era.

Technology is used, but sparingly. Specifically, leather cutting is still performed by hand rather than with lasers. Instead, lasers create plastic patterns, which are handed to skilled cutters known as clickers. Their title comes from the distinctive “click” of the knife blade hitting the cutting table. With traditional knives, they shape the leather in the old-fashioned way.

Production is carefully restricted, with only 450–500 pairs made each week. This approach feels like near-bespoke manufacturing. Employees work on multiple models daily, instead of repeating one routine step like in assembly-line workshops. Every shoe is built with Goodyear welting, allowing the worn sole to be changed without damaging the upper.

In line with Hermes, John Lobb uses exceptional materials, particularly from premium French calfskin. Only slightly more than half of the leather is suitable for cutting, while the remainder becomes minor leather goods.

The range combines iconic staples with contemporary tweaks. The City II Oxfords, for instance, have been given a more elegant outline. The Sennen double monks gained longer straps and a more robust foundation. The Lopez loafers, introduced in 1950, now include a rubber sole and fresh shades. Newer icons include the Porth sneakers and the Levah sneakers, which are released each season in a mix of colors and materials.

Through its dedication to craftsmanship, John Lobb stands as a benchmark in English shoemaking.

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